Little dumpling heaven

A week before Christmas, a few Singaporeans gathered at a party in Beijing and promptly talked about the only topic which our Government allows - food. We are permitted to discuss sex as well, but food seemed more exciting.

So as we exchanged notes on where to find the best Peking Duck, I thought it may not be a bad idea to start a blog on food in Beijing. Also, it is winter and I'm bored shivering at home.

Since I am hardly the foodie and known among friends for a hopelessly weak stomach (hence the title of the blog), I wonder if this is sustainable. But well, the impetus kicked in earlier this evening after gulping down some of the best dumplings I have ever had.

This "jiao zi" eatery is hardly well-known and will not be found in any food guides or websites or blogs (except this one, of course). It is, in the words of KT, who brought us there, a "rather insignificant looking" restaurant. And given that it has trouble spelling "restaurant" in English (see pic below), it does not take long for anyone to realise that it is a place that caters to locals.


That usually means three things in Beijing: hard to locate; hygiene standards suspect; and dirt cheap. In the case of Changshan Island Dalian Seafood Dumpling Restaurant (yes the Chinese like very very long names for companies and restaurants), it also means very good food.

Located just metres from the northeastern corner of the Forbidden City, the eatery serves up dumplings fit for emperors. They have some 30 types of jiaozi. We tried just two - fish and pork with corn - and they were both delicious. In fact, we pretty much put the first dumplings into our mouths and then ordered a second serving right away. It was that good. The filling was soft and juicy and the dough skin was of the right texture - not as thick as the frozen jiaozi that you buy from supermarkets, but with enough on it to keep the gravy in.


We had veg and pork chops too, but really, the main attraction was the jiaozi. I have had enough dumplings across China to say that this one's up there with the best. Wash it down with a few glasses of Yanjing beer and it was a happy night. The meal set us back by just 30 yuan, or about S$6, per person.

But be warned: the heating in the restaurant is not enough to keep you warm. The waitresses wear thick jackets. And the only toilet available is the public one across the street. Hardly the dirtiest I have been to, but well....may be best not to down that many Yanjing.

Call the restaurant at 10-6403-5009 for directions to this little dumpling heaven. If the cabbie drives into a street full of rubbish on both sides, you are on the right path.