The laksa dynasty

The conquerors of Beijing had always come in a pair - the Manchus Dorgon and Shunzhi; the communists Mao Zedong and Zhu De; and Kublai Khan and his Mongolian BBQ. So it is perhaps no surprise that the latest invaders of this former imperial city are also a duo - Laksa and Mee Siam. It may be hard to believe, but this pair of spicy Singapore favourite noodle dishes are actually taking Beijing by storm.

On New Year's Day, after climbing the Western Hills' Badachu on feet and descending on a horse, I thought it would be nice to eat like one too. And when you are in sub-zero temperature and smelling like a beast, you want something safe, predictable and super spicy. TK suggested Toastbox at Xidan for its laksa and mee siam and the rest of us neighed in agreement.


Most Singaporeans would be very familiar with homegrown Toastbox - a retro cafe chain serving Singapore-style beverages and snacks. But in Beijing, it is not that well-known. While its buns brother Breadtalk is all over town, there are only two Toastbox outlets (in Xidan's Joy City Basement 1, 010-59716268). Judging by the sight that greeted us, maybe it is time they open up a few more.


There was a persistent line at the cashier and the 30-odd seats were almost all taken. But the biggest shocker was that at almost every table, there was a bowl of laksa or mee siam. I had assumed that most of the Chinese would be there for the pork floss toast and other bakery stuff. But the spicy stufff with weird names? No way!

Curiosity got the better of me and I chatted up this sweet young thing sitting next to me, who was attacking her mee siam like how Kublai used to beat up her ancestors. Let's just call her Mixian, since that is how the Chinese pronounce "mee siam".

Me: Hi, I am from Singapore and I am just wondering if you like what you are eating?

Mixian: It's wonderful! There are no noodles like this in Beijing! I have no idea what is its name or what goes into it, but this is really good.

Me: Have you tried the laksa (pointing at my empty bowl)?

Mixian: I had that the last time and it was fabulous too. I didn't want to go for the same thing this time, so I decided to try this (gesturing at her half-empty plate). If this place is at my office building, I would be having it every day!

By the way, the above conversation is true. I didn't make it up. Mixian really loved the mee siam, and laksa. And she was really quite sweet-looking.

Her appraisal wasn't that far off too. The laksa gravy did not come with too much coconut milk and was not dripping with chili oil too. The noodles were springy and the topping of fish cake and tiny sliced prawn did not clutter the bowl. It allowed me to focus on the most important components of laksa - the noodles and the gravy.


I didn't have a chance to try the mee siam. But I trust Mixian. Beijing, bow to your new conquerors: Emperor Laksa and Empress Mee Siam.